Algren Eats

Despite my love of Nelson Algren, my reading of his work is by no means comprehensive. I still haven't read most of his later work (everything after A Walk on the Wild Side), other than browsing a bit through The Last Carousel and The Devil's Stocking a few times without ever completely taking the plunge. I feel like I should rectify this omission, even though his later work is generally considered to be far inferior to his early books, if for no other reason than to get a broader picture of the man.

And now I'm reminded of one of Algren's early works (written during the Depression but not published until years after his death), the all-but-invisible America Eats, a nonfiction study of Midwestern cuisine which was written while Algren was part of the Federal Writers Project. Newcity Chicago has a nice piece on the book by Michael Nagrant in its latest issue.

Though Algren’s normally gritty prose is replaced by a reverent and observant tone, “America Eats” is a fabulously readable story of the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth century culinary byways of the immigrant Midwest. Algren weaves verse and poetry into a narrative that whisks you joyfully through what could easily crumble into dry schoolbook style history.

Although Algren is forever associated with Chicago, he was actually born in Detroit. Nice to see the article's writer give a nod to Algren as one of the Motor City's finest exports, alongside Vernor's Ginger Ale, Joe Louis, the MC5 and the automobile - and blessedly without any pandering mention of the White Stripes. And yes, I can also definitely see Algren as the Anthony Bourdain of his era.

Oh, and I also second Nagrant's assessment of John King Books. A truly amazing store.